Raising Lionhead Rabbits

3 Responses to “what is the best kind of rabbit hutch when breeding rabbits ??”

1. Emzy K Says:
   July 5th, 2009 at 8:23 am

   well once my rabbit got pregnet in a hutch with legs and it was wooden with wirers at the front and there was a part where they could sleep are you a first time breeder or do you know the stages if you dont

   1) do the two rabbits live with each other or are they separated if they are put thev female in the malhutch
   because females are very teratoral over their hutch

   2) when it is at the first stage of pregnacy the tend to grunt and stay away from others

   3)there belly gets big and hard like a foot ball when you shold pick her up and she runs away dont grab her because it can be stressful for them and it could hurt the babys

   4) take the male rabbit out because when she has the babys he will eat them so he can have sex with her again

   5)the bed part wold be most likly her nest you could tell because there will be more straw/hay and fur

   6) FUR your thinking it is her own she pulls it off her own cheast so the tit are more out for the babys dont worry it is normal

   7) is when the babys come now if they are there and they are setteled in you have to pick them up and cheack if they have two ears and four legs and you also pick them up to get your sent on them and later u will be able to hold them all you want because you have got the mothers approvel. sometimes it could be a false borth and blobs of plasenta will come out but dont worry she will eat that and off the babys or there is babys but she herself eats them because you have got her scared/stressed out or she is not ready herself

   8)if there are dead babys you will have to remove them yourself
   References :
   http://www.thenaturetrail.com/Palpating-Rabbit-Does.htm

2. bender Says:
   July 5th, 2009 at 8:49 am

   Are you a member of any rabbit club or are you just going to breed crossbreeds to add to the 100’s of other crossbreeds that get slaughtered or abandoned every week.

   The following was compiled by me to give more help to new rabbit owners and I exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lop rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50+ years ago, when I was a small child.

   History.
   Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).

   Behaviour of all rabbits.
   Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
   By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.

   Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs and along with the following. Vegetables:
   Artichoke leaves and Jerrusalem leaves, stems and tubers, Asparagus, Baby Sweetcorns and full size ones, Beetroot, Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties), Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts), Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets), Carrots (and carrot tops), Cauliflower (and the leaves), Celeriac, Celery (and its leaves), Chicory (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Courgette ( also leaves and flowers), Cucumber ( also leaves and flowers), Curly Kale (Excerlent for winter use), Fennel, Green beans (including leaves and stems), Kohl rabi, Parsnip, Peas (including the leaves and pods), Peppers (red, green and yellow), Pumpkin ( also leaves and flowers), Radish Tops, Rocket, Romaine (and all other lettuce as this is a diretic), Spinach (only occasional), Spring Greens, Squash (e.g. Butternut, leaves and flowers), Swede (Excerlent for winter use), Turnip (only occasional), Watercress.
   Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to): Basil, Coriander, Dill, Mint (peppermint), Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme.
   Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content): all types of fresh fruit including skin Apple, Apricot, Banana (high in potassium),Blackberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties), Blueberries,Cherries, Grapes, Kiwi Fruit, Melon, Mango, Nectarines, Orange, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Plums, Raspberries, Strawberries, Raspberries (and leaves – excellent astringent properties), Tomatoes (not the leaves)
   Wild Garden Herbs/Weeds/Flowers: Borage, Calendula, Camomile, Chickweed ( in small amounts as this is a diretic), Clover (leaves and flowers), Coltsfoot, Comfrey, Dandelion (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat!, Lavender, Mallow, Nettle (the type with the white flowers), Nasturtium (leaves and flowers), Shepherd’s purse, Sow Thistle, Plantain, Yarrow.
   Extra vitamins and salt licks are not required. Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
   To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their low quality food, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing. Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots

   Rabbits living indoor will drink more water than rabbits living out of doors because of the dryer atmosphere

   Housing
   For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
   Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7–12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4′ x 2′ hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6" off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you can not therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
   Rabbits are naturally very clean animals and will only defecate and urinate in one area.

   Bedding
   Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
   Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings

   Exercise
   Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be ‘rabbit proofed’ by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the ‘getting to know each other’ period.
   Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share ‘bedrooms’. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).

   Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
   Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
   Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.

   Health
   It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your child’s rabbit.
   To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. I don’t see altering as cruel when the kits may be dead in a year anyway; either through being "released" into the wild" or being slaughtered in a shelter when the owners have got bored of them.
   Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.

   Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling.
   Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries, nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned and they moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).

   Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly.
   If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
   Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.

   Rabbit teeth, some rabbits have an over bight or an under bight which means that the teeth don’t wear down properly, you have a choice here 1] Get your vet to pull the two front teeth out, 2] Get your vet to cut or file the two front teeth down, 3] You cut or file the teeth down. I prefer to do this job myself and cut the rabbits teeth, but I have never had to cut the teeth of any of the rabbits that I have bred. The name for this problem is malocclusion! Rabbits do far far better on a poor quality hay as they will chew this then excrete a pellet which they will eat so as to get more value out of the poor quality hay. This will also give them a more natural exercises to do and keep them occupied for longer. Trimming Nails Sit down and lay your rabbit on its back that way you can get to all 4 feet put your thumb on the sole of the foot with your fingers around the back of the foot and press your thumb down to show the nails take 1/3 rd of the nail off
   A rabbits nose should be dry when it is in good health, if the nose is wet seek advice from your vet.

   Breeding
   Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects and anything that is not found in the wild population such as long fur, extra short fur, drop down ears or satin fur can be classed as a genetic defect. Long hared rabbits such as Angora’s, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot more grooming than short hair or normal coated rabbits do
   Females will come into heat when a male is around, they don’t go through cycles like most other creatures although they can mate anytime in any month and produce a litter, in theory they can produce a litter every month.
   Gestation 30 to 32 days, litter size 3 to 8, eyes open 10 to 12 days, weaning are 6 to 8 weeks When the litter arrives don’t expect every kit in the litter to be the same size, like multiple human births each kit will be different size and weight. Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-Doe (Dam) Young rabbit- Kit (offspring)
   All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female pet rabbits die having their first litter.
   Males can father a litter anytime from 6 months old up to 12 years old.
   When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
   Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.

   If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock there is always some one out there who will buy them.

   The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest.
   After the birth she will feed her kits at dawn and dusk, to feed them she will stand over the kits and the kits will come up to feed from the doe. Does don’t menstruate, they ovulate after mating, a very efficient system.

   Sexing rabbits try the following sites ….
   http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing. … http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/sexing.shtml … http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=18&cat=1803&articleid=2694 …

   My experience
   I have bred, exhibited and bred exhibition rabbits since the early 70’s, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12+ years, at the moment I have 26 rabbits.

   Garden plants. There’s no such thing as a rabbit-proof plant. However, there are some that usually get passed over for something more tasty. Achilles (Yarrow), Agastache (Hyssop), Aquilegia (Columbine), Astilbe, Digitalis (Foxglove), Eryngium (Sea Holly), Euphorbia (Spurge), Gaillardia (Blanket Flower), Geranium (Perennial Geraniums), Helleborus (Hellebore), Hyacinthus (Hyacinth), Iris, Kniphofia (Red-hot Poker), Lavandula (Lavender), Lupinus (Lupine), Narcissus (Daffodil), Nepeta (Cat mint), Origanum (Oregano), Papaver (Poppy), Penstemon (Beardtongue), Peony, Perovskia (Russian Sage), Polygonatum (Solomon’s Seal), Salvia (Sage), Yucca. Toxic Plants found in the house around Christmas: Poinsettia, Philodendron, Diffenbachia, Taxus Bicata = Yew, Chrysanthemum
   Plants found to be Poisonous to Rabbits
   Aloe vera, Amaryllis, Anemone, Azalea, Buttercups, Bluebells, Bittersweet, Bryony, Caladium, Carnation, Clematis, Crown-of-Thorns, Cyclamen, Columbine, Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Deadly Nightshade, Delphinium, Dieffenbachia, Dracaena, Dog Mercury, Evergreens, Fig, Figwort, Fools Parsley, Poppies, Ragwort, Hemlock, Holly, Hydrangea, Impatiens, Juniper, Kingcup, Leyland Cypress, Laburnum, Lords And Ladies, Lily of the Valley, Lobelia, Marsh Marigold, Monkshood, Meadow Saffron, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Oleander, Primrose, Privet, Schefflera, Spurges, St Johns wort, Rhododendron, Rubber Plant, Tulips, Wisteria, Woody Nightshade

   Showing
   The Hobby of Breeding & Exhibiting Rabbits is called ‘The Fancy’.
   BRC member for over 30 years. http://www.thebrc.org

   Since having a brain injury I had to cut down on pets from over the 200 I owned, I have only kept a few Ferrets and European polecat hybrids, Rabbits, Dogs and a breeding pair of Rosella Parakeets.
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/intact-ferrets/ http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13uk/Tonys_Pets.html .
   Contact me if you need any more help. I help my vet when ever I can.

   The American cottontail rabbit is an inferior species of rabbit and not the same specie as the rabbits that are kept all over the world as pets, the domestic rabbits originate from Spain
   References :

3. devilishblueyes Says:
   July 5th, 2009 at 9:17 am

   That really is going to depend on the breed of rabbit you have and how large that breed is. If you are going to breed the rabbits, probably the best place to keep your rabbit is outside. The reason being is that rabbits give off ammonia, and if you have a descent number of rabbits inside the ammonia will tend to build up.

   If your breed is small enough, a wire floored cage normally works better. The reason why is because it is easier to keep your rabbits cleaner. And the cleaner you can keep your rabbits and cages; the easier it will be to keep your rabbits healthy. For breeds that are larger than the size of a New Zealand rabbit, you probably should keep that breed on a solid floored cage with bedding. Those breeds are usually too heavy for a wire floored cage and can develop sore feet if you keep them on a wire floor.

   And important portion to any rabbit housing is adequate ventilation and protection from the elements. Adequate ventilation is very important to prevent the build up of ammonia. If a rabbit barn is built, a barn over 24 ft wide or 100 ft long is not recommended to allow proper ventilation. Try picking a shady spot to put your rabbit pens so that your rabbits are protected from the heat in summer. If you place the rabbit housing under a tree, make sure not to place the housing under a tree that loses its leaves early like a walnut tree or cottonwood tree. In the winter, they will need their cages or hutch enclosed on 3 sides so that there is not a draft in the cage. Rabbits can take cold weather but not a draft. A winter draft can easily give your rabbit pneumonia.

   If you build a hutch, don’t place the hutch directly on the ground. There are several reasons why. First, you don’t want water rising and getting in the pen. Secondly, having the hutch directly on the ground allows predators such as dogs and raccoons to more easily attack your rabbits. Third, the cage should be at about waist level or a little above or below. This allows you to get the rabbit out of the cage easier and it allows you to clean the cage easier if it is a solid floored cage.

   If you are building a hutch, make sure to secure it to the ground with a post. I tell you this from personal experience. There is not much worse than getting a bad storm in the middle of the night that blows your hutch over then you have rabbits running around the yard in the dark, in the raing, and you are out there in the pouring rain trying to chase them down while it is thundering and lightning. What we did to retro-fit our hutches was to place a fence post about 3 feet deep into the ground and bolt the hutch to it via a 2×4 stud.

   As far as building a nestbox, make the nestbox about 1-2" wider and longer than the doe measures when she is lying down. Use 3/4" plywood for the sides. Use about 1/4" plywood for the front back and top. Then for the bottom use pegboard or use 1/4" plywood and drill a bunch of holes through it. The holes are needed to allow any urine to drain out so that the nestbox doesn’t get stinking. The board at the front of the nestbox should be about 4-6" tall. It should be tall enough so that the nestbox can hold the straw easily and that it prevents the babies from jumping out before they are ready once you have the bedding in the nestbox. Cut the opening at the front so that it angles back from the front board at about a 45 degree angle to the back and top of the nestbox. The height of the nestbox should be tall enough so that your doe can easily get in and out of the nestbox. The nestbox needs to be small enough so that the doe feels like she can hide, but at the same time big enough so she can get in and out of the nestbox easily. If the nestbox is too big she may try having the babies outside of the nestbox between the nestbox and the wall of the cage because she feels she can hide in a better spot. If it is too small she may also avoid it because she can’t fit in it well. Make sure to use straw as your nestbox bedding. Rabbits tend to scatter and lose their litters more when bedding with a strong smell such as wood shavings or hay is used. Straw doesn’t have a strong smell as long as it isn’t moldy. Don’t use moldy smelling straw. Make sure the nestbox is cleaned out and has been allowed to air out in the sun if it has been used previously. Sunlight helps disinfect it and airing it out helps remove any odors.

   PS – If building a wire cage, make sure to use galvanized after welded wire. It will last much longer than galvanized before welded wire will. For most wire rabbit cages, 1"x 2" wire is used for the sides and top. And 1/2" x 1" wire is used for the flooring. Always turn the side with the most wires towards the inside of the cage, especially in regards to the flooring. Use the thickest gauge of wire for the flooring that you can. This will help prevent sore feet. The smaller the gauge number is the thicker the wire is. It is vitally important that the floor wire is galvanized after welded wire. The floor wire is more prone to rusting and therefore needs to be galvanized after welded to prevent rusting. Rust on the floor wire can be abrasive to the rabbit’s feet and can tend to cause sore feet. Also, never put any salt or mineral blocks in a wire cage. Your rabbit gets the salt and minerals it needs in its rabbit pellets and all they will do is cause rust spots in your wire cage causing your cage to rust through early in the spot where the salt or mineral lick was kept.

   PSS – Keep a radio playing for your rabbits. Rabbits get scared easily by sudden movements and sudden sounds. A constant radio playing gets them used to sound and you’ll find that your rabbits don’t get excited as easily, helping prevent them from running around in their cages then running into the cage wall and breaking their spinal column. As far as watering, use either bowls or a heated watering system. Water bottles are hard to clean and fill. And they are not good to use in the winter. The nozzle freezes quickly not allowing the rabbit to drink any water once it freezes. Bowls at least allow the rabbit to get some water from licking the ice and allow the rabbit to drink water longer. Heated automatic watering systems are the best, but they are expensive and probably are not appropriate unless you plan to raise a lot of rabbits.
   References :
   I’ve been raising and showing rabbits for over 25 years.

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