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Mum and i want to start breeding rabbits..but we don’t know where to start?

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Tell us everything we should know as in
which breed is better to sell,
how to tell the difference between a male and female,
what to feed them,
do most rabbits need seperating from each other and individual cages,
what there behaviour is like and anything other relevant information would be great!
thanks.

This is my kind of question!

I remember when I was in the exact position you are now. I didn’t know where to start or what to do. The first thing I did was join the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). To Join them go to arba.net there is a tab on the top right hand corner that says "join". The ARBA provides you with a book with tons of info in it and a subscription to the Domestic Rabbits magazine.

If you’re already a member then you’re off to a great start!

There is so many things I could tell you about breeding rabbits, but first things first..

The breed. The ARBA has 47 recognized breeds. To see them go here: http://www.arba.net/Breeds.htm

Choosing a breed comes easy to some people to others it may take a little thought. You should not worry about which rabbits will be better to sell because breeding rabbits should be done for the pure joy of breeding rabbits. Raising a grand champion from your own line of rabbits is very rewarding. However, there will come a few times where you will need to sell some of your rabbits. I don’t think it’s the breed that you need to pick, but the quality when it comes to selling rabbits. EXAMPLE: You may have a low quality holland lop (a popular breed) But your trianta is looking good (a more rare breed) you will probably sell your trianta first. Given that there are trianta breeders in your area.

When choosing a breed look over the breeds on the ARBA breed picture page pick out a few that you like how they look. Look those breeds up! If you click on the pictures most of them send you to the breed specailty website. Google the breed name and see what comes up usually if you put in the breed and rabbitry after it in google you will get links to people with those rabbits. E-mail these breeders with specific question on that breed. There are a lot of genetic things that some breed have to worry about than others. Popular breeds will be easier to get a hold of a breeder in your area.

Probably the best thing you could possibly do is attend a rabbit show.
There you get a close look at several breeds and you can talk to the people who own these rabbits. They will help you out greatly!

To find a rabbit show in your area go here:http://www.arba.net/Shows.htm

You don’t have to bring a rabbit to go and it’s free to get in.
Use your time there to talk to everyone you can. Exhibitors, the secretary, and even the judges (after they are judging of course)

Also at shows there is usually a vendor there that will have rabbit supplies available. Everything from cages to tattoo kits, nest boxes to carriers. These are things that you will need.

As for your second question. Sexing:
That is rather hard to explain using only words.
Pictures say it all-http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing.htm

*You can also ask one of the exhibitors this at a show. They will show you the difference.

Feed: Nutrition, one the most important things when if comes to breeding rabbits. You need some good quality pellets (ask breeders for references) As for vegetables, keep young rabbits far away from vegetables it can hurt they newly adjusting stomach. Some vegetable for adult rabbits is fine, just don’t get carried away. Hay is good roughage for them. I use alfalfa, but I hear good things about timothy.
When you buy a new rabbit make sure you get some of the food it’s used to from its last owner so that you can switch it off with out too much stress.

If you plan on having rabbits for breeding you should definitely put them in separate cages. Rabbits really don’t like living in pairs and will often become violent with it’s cage mate.

I use all wire stack cages and I love them.

Every rabbit is different. Some rabbits are sweet as can be and others will bite you whenever you put your hand near. The breed it is has nothing to do with this.

BREEDING-

When you have picked out your breed and bought atleast one healthy doe and one healthy buck with no disqualifications. Read up on every possible book you could find on breeding rabbits and talked to several other breeders, you are ready to begin!

Make sure they are in separate cages and of appropriate age for breeding for your breed. TAKE THE DOE TO THE BUCK. This is important because if you bring the buck to the doe then the doe will get aggressive. Everyonce in awhile you will get a stubborn doe that will not accept the buck. Just wait until tomorrow and try again for 5 consecutive days. She’ll come around. Give them enough time to see if she really won’t accept him or she’s just playing hard to get.
The buck will mount the doe and if successful, the doe will raise her rear and the buck will fall. Take the doe out of the bucks cage and hold her as though you were cradling a baby. This will cause muscles to tense up and keep sperm in. About 4-7 hours later do this all over again. The first breeding just anitiated ovulation.

On the 28th day you will need to prepare a nest box for the doe. Abo

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in breeding rabbits

Can you put two unrelated female mini lop rabbits in same hutch?

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My 11 yr old son has an approx 3 month old female mini lop and we are looking at getting another baby mini lop for our 9 yr old daughter. Can we put two unrelated females together in the same hutch or will they fight? The hutch isn’t huge but they would get a LOT of "house time" when brought inside for a run around (which the first one gets now anyway).

It is possible for two unrelated female rabbits to live together, but it does take work. First, I would suggest getting both rabbits spayed. It will cut down on their territorial feelings and decrease their cancer risks to boot. Introduce them to each other in a neutral territory, someplace where neither bunny has been before. Have a spray bottle of water ready to discourage any fighting and be prepared to separate them. Keep doing this and see how they’re getting along. You might want to try putting them in a mildly stressful environment together, such as a box in the back seat of a car with the engine running or the top of a washer or drier while it’s running. It may encourage them to seek comfort from each other. Keep watching how they are around each other. When you think they’re ready, you can try letting them into the same hutch, though be prepared to supervise and to remove the other rabbit if you’ve taken things too fast.

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in Uncategorized

how do i get my 7 week old dwarf bunnies to eat?

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i just purchased 2 7week old dwarf bunnies.i bout them pellets and hay.they are not very interested in the pellets.but also they dont really eat much of either.also they are not drinking much of the water.how can i get them to start eating and drinking?is this something i should be alarmed by?

If they are definatly not drinking, you may need to give them water via syringe.
Mash the pellets up a bit so they are easier to eat.

If they continue to not eat, take them to the vet asap.

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in dwarf bunnies

Chloe – 5 Week Old Lionhead Rabbit

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www.aftertherainrabbitry.com

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in lionhead rabbit

turborace rabbit mini rex

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cute little rex running like crazy turbo

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in Uncategorized

Rabbit Nesting

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Here’s a vid of one of my rabbits making a nest, she’s having a false pregnancy but they do the same for a real one, this is a sign your rabbit is about to give birth or if not, it thinks it is.

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in breeding rabbits

Netherland Dwarf Rabbits

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These two OAPS, grey male and black female date back to at least summer 1999, maybe even 1998 or 1997 and they are still doing fine. They should really be on zimmer frames but good clean living and rabbit fun and frolicks has seen them through to ripe old rabbit age.

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Posted on June 30th 2009 in dwarf bunnies

How to help with breeding rabbits?

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I just got a female rabbit to breed with my male and he keeps humping and humping her but she doesn't stick up so it's not accomplishing anything and I feel kind of bad for her. Is there any way to help the process?

All you are doing is contributing to the overpopulation of rabbits when there are so many that already need a home and are euthanized! You are irresponsible!

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Posted on June 28th 2009 in breeding rabbits

How long to Mini Rex Rabbits Live?

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I have an almost five year old mini rex rabbit. I was wondering if someone could tell me how long they live. He has a whole room to himself. If you could narrow it down from 'they live 5- 10 years' that would be VERY helpful. Also how many rabbit years are in a people year? And what do rabbits usually die of?

Thank you,

misspositive15 :)

they live for about the same as any other rabbit 8 years.i don't think there is a rabbit years but i don't know for sure and i guess the most common thing rabbits die of is old age. Or from being killed for meat. Hez

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Posted on June 28th 2009 in Uncategorized

I have two already bonded dwarf bunnies and was wondering if i could introduce another rabbit?

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I recently adopted two 1 year old netherland dwarf bunnies and was wondering if it would be possible to introduce another bunny similar in age and size?

Also, if its possible how would i go about doing this?
ps they are male and female (spayed and neutered) and my mom suggested getting a baby bunny? is this a good idea?

As long as the hew one that you’re going to introduce to them is spayed,then it will be fine.

There are two types of introduction:

♦Introducing rabbits on neutral territory
~Use a large neutral territory (i.e. an unfamiliar area to both rabbits). This could be an escape proof area of a garden, a large run or a spare room such as a utility room.

Provide lots of hiding places so that the rabbits can get away from each other if necessary. As rabbits are territorial, be careful not to include items that can be defended. Open ended boxes, open beds and plastic tubes are best.

Scatter tasty and interesting items of food (such as fruit, vegetables and hay). This not only serves as a positive distraction when they first meet, but also each rabbit will associate the other with something pleasant.

Place the rabbits at opposite ends of the neutral area and let them meet in their own time. Some chasing, circling and mounting behaviour is normal and to be expected, but you may have to intervene if either rabbit starts to look stressed or they start to become aggressive. This is really important as a rabbit’s skin is very thin and could tear easily if a fight was to occur. Signs that the rabbits are getting on are mutual grooming, eating together and lying down next to each other.

If the rabbits have bonded sufficiently over the course of the day, it may be possible to house them together overnight. Ideally the housing should be unfamiliar to both rabbits, but if you are using the existing hutch and run, make sure it is thoroughly cleaned and preferably moved to a different patch of grass. It is also far easier to introduce the female rabbit to the male rabbit’s accommodation than the other way round, as females are more territorial than males. If you have any concerns at all, it is a good idea to keep them separate at night (as they cannot be supervised) and carry on with the introduction on the following day. In some cases, the pairing process may have to be a much more gradual process.

♦Introducing rabbits using two runs
~This method allows the rabbits to slowly get used to each other’s presence. It is also useful if you do not have a separate neutral area to do the above, or are unable to supervise all interactions between the two rabbits.

Put the two rabbits in separate runs, and arrange it so they are near or directly next to each other. During the course of the day, swap the rabbits over to prevent the rabbits establishing separate territories. As with the above method, add some tasty treats as a distraction.

When the rabbit’s behaviour suggests they are happy with each other (e.g. lying down relaxed, side by side), you can then introduce them to a joint hutch/pen area, following the guidelines above. Take care not to rush this stage. Some rabbit pairs may take just a day to bond, whereas others may take several.

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Posted on June 28th 2009 in dwarf bunnies

Looking for a good book on raising rabbits? Get How to Train & Care for Your Rabbit today and maximize your enjoyment of this hobby.