Tell us everything we should know as in
which breed is better to sell,
how to tell the difference between a male and female,
what to feed them,
do most rabbits need seperating from each other and individual cages,
what there behaviour is like and anything other relevant information would be great!
thanks.
This is my kind of question!
I remember when I was in the exact position you are now. I didn’t know where to start or what to do. The first thing I did was join the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). To Join them go to arba.net there is a tab on the top right hand corner that says "join". The ARBA provides you with a book with tons of info in it and a subscription to the Domestic Rabbits magazine.
If you’re already a member then you’re off to a great start!
There is so many things I could tell you about breeding rabbits, but first things first..
The breed. The ARBA has 47 recognized breeds. To see them go here: http://www.arba.net/Breeds.htm
Choosing a breed comes easy to some people to others it may take a little thought. You should not worry about which rabbits will be better to sell because breeding rabbits should be done for the pure joy of breeding rabbits. Raising a grand champion from your own line of rabbits is very rewarding. However, there will come a few times where you will need to sell some of your rabbits. I don’t think it’s the breed that you need to pick, but the quality when it comes to selling rabbits. EXAMPLE: You may have a low quality holland lop (a popular breed) But your trianta is looking good (a more rare breed) you will probably sell your trianta first. Given that there are trianta breeders in your area.
When choosing a breed look over the breeds on the ARBA breed picture page pick out a few that you like how they look. Look those breeds up! If you click on the pictures most of them send you to the breed specailty website. Google the breed name and see what comes up usually if you put in the breed and rabbitry after it in google you will get links to people with those rabbits. E-mail these breeders with specific question on that breed. There are a lot of genetic things that some breed have to worry about than others. Popular breeds will be easier to get a hold of a breeder in your area.
Probably the best thing you could possibly do is attend a rabbit show.
There you get a close look at several breeds and you can talk to the people who own these rabbits. They will help you out greatly!
To find a rabbit show in your area go here:http://www.arba.net/Shows.htm
You don’t have to bring a rabbit to go and it’s free to get in.
Use your time there to talk to everyone you can. Exhibitors, the secretary, and even the judges (after they are judging of course)
Also at shows there is usually a vendor there that will have rabbit supplies available. Everything from cages to tattoo kits, nest boxes to carriers. These are things that you will need.
As for your second question. Sexing:
That is rather hard to explain using only words.
Pictures say it all-http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing.htm
*You can also ask one of the exhibitors this at a show. They will show you the difference.
Feed: Nutrition, one the most important things when if comes to breeding rabbits. You need some good quality pellets (ask breeders for references) As for vegetables, keep young rabbits far away from vegetables it can hurt they newly adjusting stomach. Some vegetable for adult rabbits is fine, just don’t get carried away. Hay is good roughage for them. I use alfalfa, but I hear good things about timothy.
When you buy a new rabbit make sure you get some of the food it’s used to from its last owner so that you can switch it off with out too much stress.
If you plan on having rabbits for breeding you should definitely put them in separate cages. Rabbits really don’t like living in pairs and will often become violent with it’s cage mate.
I use all wire stack cages and I love them.
Every rabbit is different. Some rabbits are sweet as can be and others will bite you whenever you put your hand near. The breed it is has nothing to do with this.
BREEDING-
When you have picked out your breed and bought atleast one healthy doe and one healthy buck with no disqualifications. Read up on every possible book you could find on breeding rabbits and talked to several other breeders, you are ready to begin!
Make sure they are in separate cages and of appropriate age for breeding for your breed. TAKE THE DOE TO THE BUCK. This is important because if you bring the buck to the doe then the doe will get aggressive. Everyonce in awhile you will get a stubborn doe that will not accept the buck. Just wait until tomorrow and try again for 5 consecutive days. She’ll come around. Give them enough time to see if she really won’t accept him or she’s just playing hard to get.
The buck will mount the doe and if successful, the doe will raise her rear and the buck will fall. Take the doe out of the bucks cage and hold her as though you were cradling a baby. This will cause muscles to tense up and keep sperm in. About 4-7 hours later do this all over again. The first breeding just anitiated ovulation.
On the 28th day you will need to prepare a nest box for the doe. Abo
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www.aftertherainrabbitry.com
cute little rex running like crazy turbo
Here’s a vid of one of my rabbits making a nest, she’s having a false pregnancy but they do the same for a real one, this is a sign your rabbit is about to give birth or if not, it thinks it is.
These two OAPS, grey male and black female date back to at least summer 1999, maybe even 1998 or 1997 and they are still doing fine. They should really be on zimmer frames but good clean living and rabbit fun and frolicks has seen them through to ripe old rabbit age.
